After picking up a number of arcade machines from my local rescue I’ve been working hard to repair or distribute them to other repairers / collectors.
I started by attempting to fire up the Sega Thunderblade deluxe and found that the PCB was present although the screen had collapse. It should all be repairable though. As it’s mainly mechanical in nature it was beyond my skill and interest to restore so I organised a sale with a friend on the forum (who treasures all Sega sit-downs).
Next I pulled a number of the PCBs from the cabs and inspected them. Got a Snow Bros, Robocop and a Neo Geo MVS. The Snow Bros had a colour issue and flickery sprites (a common issue); replacing 4 chips fixed it.
This tidy cab has a slight hiss on the LOPT but otherwise it’s golden. Replaced the horrible rectangular buttons for some large circular ones.
Wheeled in a larger cab that was World Cup 90 themed and it powered up fine but had white specs all over. Experience told me that replacing the switching psu would solve the issue and £17 later it was fixed. Added to the collection.
Next was Crude Busters. The PCB was showing garbage but the cab was fine. A quick brush down and a talk with a friend and it was organised for collection. The screen may look broken but it’s actually just reflecting the lock on my garage! I supplied some large round buttons to replace the horrid rectangular ones.
It’s been a while since my last post and that’s mainly been down to getting busy with some repairs. I’ve recently acquired a T2 and an Operation Wolf arcade machine. Both are in fair condition but need some attention to get up and running.
I tried blindly turning them both on and the T2 lit up, but no further action, and the OpWolf was dead.
I pulled out the PCBs for both and gave everything a good clean.
After checking voltages on the OpWolf I set about making a harness so I can hook it up to a supergun (jamma test rig). I also found the main cable was broken so fixed that. This is still ongoing.
The T2 was ‘watch-dogging’ which mean it was constantly resetting. After talking on the UK-Vac forum i was pointed in the right direction and made some checks. I came to the conclusion that I didn’t know enough to repair the board myself (in a decent amount of time) and so sent it off to be repaired professionally. I’ll have the results to show very soon.
I bought a spare Nintendo Zapper a couple of years ago with the plan of modding it to work with my Playchoice 10. The zapper is such an iconic accessory and Duck Hunt is one of my all-time favourite games for the NES. I don’t have a copy of Duck Hunt for Playchoice but they do come up occasionally and there’s a few multicarts available now.
It’s true there’s an official gun but getting hold of one at a decent price is near impossible. I’ve seen them go for around £80 – £100 and a Zapper goes for £5 – £10; so a no-brainer then.
Recently I was given a couple of NES controller sockets from a gutted NES (which was dead so please call off the retro police!). I can now cut the wires on the socket instead of butchering the zapper itself which is a relief.
I watched a couple YouTube videos and the procedure to make the zapper compatible with the Playchoice seems pretty straightforward. It’s just a matter of getting around to hooking up the wires and desoldering a transistor.
I’ve got a couple of generic upright jamma arcade machines that are well overdue for some love and attention. I purchased both from local sellers, in a non-working condition, and have to say I’m pretty happy about both of them.
The first I acquired is this ‘Racecard’ jamma cab which was from a local pub. The seller delivered it in a horsebox and it came complete with a working TMNT PCB. The image was intermittent but my favourite arcade monitor repairman made light work of it and I finally had a cheap working cab. A good bonus feature is that the monitor can be rotated relatively easily.
The cab now runs a 60-in-1 with the monitor kept vertical. Therefore the project I have in mind is to overhaul the control panel, add a small spinner and replace the buttons with the round type. I’d keep it limited to one joystick and I also love having duplicate buttons to support lefties!
The second cab I picked up myself and it didn’t come with a game PCB. It’s quite an interesting design as its marquee is below the control panel. The issue with this cab is the monitor has vertical collapse but I’m pretty sure my monitor repairman will be able to fix it for me. It’s in overall poor condition needing new T-moulding and a good clean.
I’ve no real plans for this cab other then getting it working. I’ll keep the monitor horizontal and put in multigame like a Pandora’s Box 3.
Here are some sizes and details for the ‘New Video Game’ cab:
The first arcade machine I purchased was this Leisure 2000 Neo-Geo MVS, containing a 4-slot MVS motherboard. It usually runs the following entertaining games: Metal Slug, Neo Turf Masters, Bubble Bobble and NeoGeo Cup 98. A Leisure 2000 is basically a cheap facsimile of the rather sort after Lordsvale cab. It’s pretty tidy inside, has a really crisp monitor and easy to move around the games room.
Looking closer at the control panel overlay (CPO) you can see that it’s seen better days. Someone’s idly picked at the edges and it’s also seen a long scrape across the front at some point.
I contacted MuddyMusic on the UKVac forum (he now runs the rather awesome Arcade Art Shop) and he made me a vector replacement but in the style of the more popular Lordsvale cab. It was delivered quickly, I looked at it and then it sat in the tube for about 4 years! Thanks to this blog it’s now out of the tube and sitting on the table currently being stretched out in preparation for fitting.
I’ll be sure to write-up how fitting the new CPO goes. I’ve got to completely remove the old one, requiring much elbow grease, and then slowly stick on the new one without trapping any air pockets. It’s a moderatly stressful process but watching a few YouTube videos should prepare me for it.
This is a continuation of the project to build a working vector arcade test bench. In part 1 I introduced my 1979 Asteroids arcade machine, covered the Atari powerbrick that would power such a machine, the fact I’d picked up a dilapidated spare, how I’d replaced some of the major components that were dead or dying, and the tasty paint job I gave it.
If you have little knowledge of the internals of classic Atari arcade machines then you might reasonably think that the next stage is to attach a game PCB to the powerbrick but there’s (un)fortunately more to it then that!
Introducing the Atari Audio Regulator PCB (AR and ARII in this case)
The AR is essentially a board dedicated to amplifying the game sound (as the name might suggest) but additionally it regulates a number of voltages for the main game PCB. It’s another part of the power system that Atari decided to separate out and which seems, for the most part, to have been a pretty good idea. If a fault developed on one of these relatively cheaper boards than an engineer could simply swap it out and keep the game running without touching the game board that included more expensive components such as ICs. Atari repurposed the AR board throughout their early games and, as the different games required different sets of voltages, made different revisions of it as they went along. There’s 1 or 2 versions of the AR1, about 6 or 7 AR2 variants and a handful of revisions of the AR3. The AR2 is the type that supports most number of classic cabs, being backward compatible with game PCBs that required the AR1, with, from memory, version ‘-02’ of the AR2 being the most compatible (on the left in the picture above) as it’s fully populated with components.
The main issue with these boards is that Atari tried to make them too clever by sticking in a ‘sense’ circuit. This circuit is meant to monitor the voltage level on the game PCB and, if it changes, take action by raising the voltage to the board. In the early days I’m sure it helped make the games more reliable but, over 35 years later, it’s not really doing what was intended. As the edge connector on the game PCB ages its contacts become less perfect and the power transfer therefore diminishes resulting in a lower voltage getting to the board. As the sense circuit attempts to compensate for the lower voltage by increasing the voltage it sends to the game pcb, it exasperates the situation, heating up the edge connector which then decreases the electrical contact. A death-loop ensues and the end result is high voltage on the 5V line (probably 9V+) and a couple of components on the AR board breaking and / or bursting into flame. The solution is to keep the game edge connector properly maintained, fit a set of ‘Guddler-approved’ jump leads between the game PCB test points and the AR’s test points (to bypass the aging edge connector), and / or, for a more permanent solution, perform the ‘sense mod’.
I’ve replaced the burned transistor at J6, patched the broken track and put the sense mod in by joining pin 1 & 2 and 3 & 6 at J7:
The sense mod is pretty simple in that you just solder two pairs of points together on the AR board so it ends up analysing the voltage it produces instead of the voltage coming back from the game PCB. By reading the AR’s own generated voltage it makes no further adjustments to the output voltage as it reads it as spot on. I decided to go down the sense mod route for my own AR2 and will also be acquiring the ‘Guddler-approved’ jump leads in the near future.
I’ve not long been the owner of a classic Atari Asteroids arcade machine and, like all things old, it needs proper maintenance. I’ve taken it upon myself to learn the machine inside out starting with the PCB and how to manage its upkeep.
The awesome thing about classic Atari games is that they are amazingly well documented and nearly every part is replaceable if it fails. The challenge comes in finding out what has failed. After a week I lost the ‘thump-thump-thump’ heartbeat that sounds throughout play. I checked the schematics, read a few posts on UKVac and then located the IC that commonly fails. A quick eBay purchase of the (now socketed) IC followed by some rusty soldering resulted in the sound coming back again. A couple of months later though the machine has developed another fault and is constantly resetting (watch-dogging as it’s known in arcade repair land). So what next?
I was fortunate enough to come across a sale of classic arcade parts and now I have everything I need to make a vector test bench.
Stage 1: prep the power supply
Early Atari vector games required a series of different AC and DC voltages so Atari created a beefy power supply which is now fondly known as a vector power brick. They’re usually pretty rusty, have a number of blown fuses and one dilapidated large capacitor (known as a Big Blue). My brick has had all the rust removed, been primed and sprayed, had all 3 x 3A and 3 x 7A fuses replaced and the Big Blue swapped for a modern replacement. I took the time to replace all the spade connectors, fitted a cherry door switch and replaced the dated power cable. A quick follow along with a YouTube tutorial and I was happy the voltages were correct.
Part 2 should show me testing the AR2 (Audio Regulator) PCB which further controls and maintains the vital voltages to run the main game PCB. Now if only I could find another good YouTube tutorial…